INSTALLATION:
THE TACHOMETER should always be fitted using the Aluminium bracket and AV mounts as supplied by the manufacturer.
NO FURTHER BRACKET OR FLEXIBLE MOUNTING IS NECESSARY. Never deform the Aluminium bracket and make sure the Tacho does not come into contact with other objects i.e.; clip-ons fairing brackets, other instruments and cables etc. (Always check especially when turning from lock to lock). NEVER fix other instruments to the Tachometer mounting bracket.
THE 'SENSOR WIRE' should be fed in an easy but direct route to the HT lead or leads. This should then be taped to the appropriate number of HT leads. (See chart for details and diagram on haw to fit to more than one HT lead). The 'Sensor Wire' should always be laid in a straight line along (NEVER COILED AROUND) the specified number of HT leads for approx 2"/3" inches and secured with tape or tie wraps. ANY EXCESS SENSOR WIRE SHOULD THEN BE CUT OFF, NOT COILED OR FOLDED.
If the Sensor Wire is too short it can be extended using a similar type of wire ensuring that you 'solder' the Joint then screen it with tape.
USING YOUR TACHO:
First remove the dummy plug from the side of the tacho. This switches the battery on, REMEMBER TO DO THIS BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE; FEVER RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE DUMMY PLUG IN. Tacho's are normally sent out fully charged, and to preserve the charge always remember to replace the 'dummy plug'.
The battery has approximately '8 WORKING HOURS' life before it needs recharging and Ni-Cad batteries like to be 'Worked' so use your tacho for say 5-6 hours then recharge overnight or for 8-12 hours. Should the battery be allowed to become totally flat then it will require 24 hours to recharge. NEVER ATTEMPT TO USE THE TACHO WITH THE BATTERY TOTALLY FLAT AS THIS CAN REVERSE ITS POLARITY.
For riders/drivers who use their machines infrequently, the 'dummy plug' can be removed from the tacho at the begining of the day and left out all day, then recharged overnight. Also the battery can be 'Artificially Worked' by removing the 'dummy plug' for 48 hours, (discharge takes this long when the engine is not running) then recharge for-24 hours.
It is essential you use only the charge lead supplied by the manufacturers as this has a system within it to control the voltage input. Using anything other than the charge lead that is supplied could be dangerous, causing the battery to explode resulting in expensive or even irreparable'damage to the instrument. To charge the tacho, first remove the dummy plug from the side of the tacho, insert the charge lead plug into the same socket, then connect the crocodile clips to a 12 VOLT BATTERY (RED to POSITIVE - BLACK to NEGATIVE).
A normal charge would be 8 to 12 hours, or overnight, after say 5-6 hours of running (see section on "Using your Tacho") DO nOT USE ANY OTHER METHOD OF CHARGING SUCH AS A BATTERY CHARGER, USE ONLY A 12 VOLT BATTERY ENSURING THAT IT HAS A FULL 12 VOLTS CHARGE IN IT. If after 24 hours charge there is no response from the tacho it is possible the battery needs replacing. The tacho should be then returned to the manufacturers for this to be done or for repair as necessary. NEVER ATTEMPT TO GET INSIDE THE TACHOMETER YOURSELF AS THIS CAN CAUSE IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO SENSITIVE COMPONENTS AND INVALIDATES ALL WARRANTIES.
SPECIAL_ INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SCITSU/ R -AUTO TACHO"
The "AUTO TACHO" does not have a 'dummy plug' to switch the battery on and off in the same way as the standard tacho, but as its name implies it automatically switches itself on and off with the engine. This tacho is easily recognised by it having an 'earth wire' coming from the back of the tacho as well as the sensor wire. This 'earth wire' is connected to the tacho bracket which is then 'earthed' when fitted to the frame. When fitting the tacho bracket to your machine you must therefore ensure there is a good contact between the bracket and the frame. The position of this 'earth wire' to the inside of one of the three legs of the tacho bracket is also very important in order to prevent fatigue of the wire due to movement of the tacho in its AV mountings. CHARGING
This is done in the same way as for the standard tacho again using only the charge lead supplied by the manufacturers. PLEASE NOTE that because of the way it opperates the "AUTO" tacho cannot be "artificially worked" in the same way as the standard tacho and can only work with the engine running.
NEVER deform the bracket from its original shape. Distortion will prevent the AV's doing the Job they were designed for.
ENSURE your fixing bolt does not hit the back of the Tacho.
ENSURE that the tacho is suspended correctly and it is not catching the bracket or other components.
NEVER mount other instruments onto the tacho bracket.
Should you have reason to remove the tacho from its bracket ENSURE when replacing it that the AV rubbers are refitted correctly. ie THEY MUST CURVE INWARDS.
ENSURE that the sensor wire is not pulled too tight.
The sensor wire MUST HOT be coiled round the HT lead/s but should be laid along it/them in a straight line, any excess MUST NOT be coiled to reduce length but should be cut off.
THE JACK PLUG MUST NOT BE 'STIFF WIRED the pressure of this can cause damage to the socket. Should it be felt necessary to attatch the Jack plug use light flexible cord.
NEVER run the engine with the Jack plug still in place.
REMEMBER to replace the Jack plug when the tacho is not in use to preserve the battery charge.
DURING HEAVY RAIN it is suggested that 'DUCT TAPE' ' is put over the socket after the Jack plug has been removed.
ALWAYS REMEMBER should you have ANY QUERIES please ask.
A COMPLETE SERVICE FOR SCITSU TACHOMETERS IS AVAILABLE FROM:
DAWSON HARMSWORTH LTD.
401-403 PENISTONE ROAD,
SHEFFIELD,
S6 2FL,
ENGLAND.
TELEPHONE: +44 (0) 114 233 7460
FAX: + 44 (0)114 232 4232
SCITSU TACHOMETERS SPECIAL APPLICATIONS
For some special applications and for engines with magneto's the tacho may
have a 'variable resistor' in the sensor wire. This is used to make adjustments
for the differing outputs of magneto's or the ignition system being used.
,
RECOMMENDED FIXING POINT OF BRACKET
VIBRATION
CAUSED BY USING ADDITIONAL BRACKETS
CAUSED BY USING ADDITIONAL BRACKETS
IT IS BETTER THOUGH NOT TO USE ADDITIONAL BRACKETS. YOU MUST AVOID OVERHANGING THE TACHO AS SHOWN ABOVE. THIS ACTS LIKE A A SPRINGBOARD' AND DAMAGES THE METER OF THE TACHO.
NOTES ON FITTING WHEN 'SENSOR WIRE' HAS TO GO TO MORE THAN ONE HT LEAD.
The 'Sensor Wire' between each spark plug lead should describe. a letter
'Z'. The current is then induced into the 'Sensor Wire' in the same direction
from each of the HT leads.
The 'Sensor Wire' should not be coiled round the HT leads or coiled at the
end if it is too long.
If the sensor wire is too long then cut off the excess. If it is too short
you can extend it using a similar type of wire ensuring you 'solder' the joint.
